Slowing Down Fast Fashion
Environment Policy Brief #171 | By: Allie Amato | July 17, 2024
Featured Photo: hellomackies.com
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It takes about 700 gallons of water for the fashion industry to produce one, solitary, cotton shirt. The amount of water used in jean production is even more exorbitant, needing roughly 2000 gallons to churn out just one pair. The reality of fast fashion is that about 87% of these garments ultimately end up in landfills. Clothing manufacturers like Shein, Zara, and H&M are labeled as fast fashion brands due to their quick turnaround of low-cost garments to keep up with the latest trends. These energy-intensive practices come at a high price, creating a significant amount of waste, and polluting the atmosphere, water, and wildlife habitats. Congress, however, is starting to take notice with the conception of the Slow Fashion Caucus, the first-ever effort of its kind. At its helm is House Representative, Chellie Pingree of Maine. In late June, Pinegree announced the caucus, the Democrat saying the aim is to develop “climate-smart policies” to reduce the fashion industry’s outsized consumption of natural resources.
Analysis:
While most industries are highly regulated, the fashion industry goes almost entirely unregulated. Legislation to curb fast fashion has already passed in rare unanimity through the lower house of the French Parliament. On the other hand, the United States has been lagging in terms of public policy. With a topic as polarizing as climate change at the center of this issue, it will likely be an uphill battle for American lawmakers to get the fashion industry in check. Representative Pinegree’s efforts though are backed by notable lawmakers including New York Democrats, Jerry Nadler and Alexandra Ocasio-Cortez. The Slow Fashion Caucus also has the support of sustainable fashion industry leaders, like Patagonia, thredUP, L.L. Bean, and the RealReal. The caucus hopes to jump-start change through incentives and circular economy policies. Considering fashion is one of the world’s biggest manufacturing industries and the second-largest consumer of water, Pinegreen believes brands “have the power to be part of the solution”
On top of excessive water consumption, apparel manufacturers in fast fashion account for as much as 10% of greenhouse gas emissions. The United Nations predicts that by 2030, emissions from textile manufacturing will surge to 6 times that amount. Textiles made using fossil-derived synthetics like polyester shed microplastics too. This pollutes our waterways and leads to marine animals ingesting the non-biodegradable debris. The shedding of microplastics threatens biodiversity for animals in every ecosystem. A circular economy could be a great start, as it promotes the reuse, repair, and recycling of textiles. It’s one of the main principles the Slow Fashion Caucus has adopted in hopes of ensuring less pollution and waste. The Fibers Fund is another backer of the Slow Fashion Caucus. They provide financial support for small American natural textile producers, focused on creating an equitable alternative to fast fashion. The fund’s managing director, Sarah Kelly champions the caucus calling it a “Collaborative action towards an equitable and regenerative textile industry.” A circular economy model would also force the industry’s hand to reduce the strain on egregiously underpaid and overworked garment workers in the global south and beyond.
Among fast-fashion’s biggest players are Temu, Shien, Zara UNIQLO, Forever 21, and H&M. It can be daunting to realize the Earth and its inhabitant’s livelihood relies heavily on the actions of huge, seemingly untouchable companies. Hope remains, as there are ways to play a part in change through voting, supporting environmental organizations, and educating others through climate activism.
Engagement Resources:
- The Ethical Brand Directory features companies that value sustainability and hold themselves accountable for where their garments end up.
- The Climate Reality Project was founded by former Vice President and climate activist, Al Gore. Their goal is net zero and they want to accomplish that through leadership training by renowned scientists and policymakers to help advocates lead the charge in their own communities.
- American Circular Textiles (ACT) is a coalition aiming to reduce textile waste and establish circular fashion policies.